Panhaggerty: A History of a Bold North-East Classic
This post is part of the History of Food series, a revived project from 2021 that explores the origin stories of traditional dishes, the lessons they can teach us, and the people who keep the food alive. In each post, we visit a restaurant that puts their spin on a classic dish.
Panhaggerty is the quintessential peasant dish: a one-pot bake of sliced potatoes layered with sautéed onions, British cheese and heaps of butter. The potato base and top of the dish are typically fried on both sides and served from a cast-iron pan.
The dish originated in the North East of England, growing popular in Newcastle and the surrounding areas.
As for the name, the origins are less clear. Haggerty may refer to its hashed or ragged appearance, or is perhaps a derivative of the French verb hache or hachais, meaning to chop.
Pan likely refers to the pan from which it is traditionally served.
Once popular in Northumberland, the origins of Panhaggerty remain ominous.
Whether imported by Irish immigrants, or simply a Northern attempt to emulate the French potato gratin, the dish is thought to have came about during the Industrial Revolution.
In the 18th century as the Industrial Revolution boomed, thousands of people across Britain left agrarian life behind and flocked to cities to work in factories, shipyards and mines.
Panhaggerty, and its sister dish Panacketly, provided these low-paid workers with the cheap calories required to perform their laborious work.
Unfortunately, this nutritious dish has fallen out of favour in the modern, post-industrial North East. Rarely is panhaggerty served at home or in restaurants.
Of course, there are exceptions.
Hinnies Restaurant
For instance, Hinnies Restaurant on the Whitley Bay seafront, North East England. The venue can be easily missed. The humble exterior stands out only for the signage proudly offering “Geordie Comfort Food.”
The average passerby is more likely to be enticed by the nearby Spanish City.
Of course, it would be their loss.
Hinnies’ boojie take on this British classic, served with a rich, creamy mustard sauce and topped with a poached egg, exceeded all expectations.
Warming up for the panhaggerty, I took the goats cheese and walnut tart. We finished the meal with a classic sticky toffee pudding bathing in a rich salted caramel sauce and topped with vanilla ice-cream.
These 3 dishes only reinforced the fact that, despite popular misconception, British cuisine does have flavour.
